Warning, this post will fully reveal my food snobbery, my general snobbery, and indulge the fact that while I know no one really cares what I think about this, I’m telling you anyway. Sorry in advance.
Yesterday I got my 2nd issue of Bon Appetit in the mail. It replace my Gourmet subscription when Conde Nast announced they were shutting it down. I loved Gourmet. It was beautiful and rich and oppulent. The writing was quality and focused on really real things like Edward Lee at 610 in Louisville or Allen Benton out in Madisonville or a mushroom farmer on Vancouver Island or the tomato workers and why you should boycott. It was politics, travel, food, and living all in one. They talked about places all over the world and it really encompassed what food is for a lot of us, not just something you have to eat to get through the day but a whole world you can create in your kitchen and beyond.
I also admit that I was ready to hate Bon Appetit before it came. Then it came. I saw the picture of the editor. She looks like a suburban soccer mom. No offense to suburban soccer mom’s, but that’s not who I turn to for inspiration, and it does seem to translate to the rest of the magazine. The pictures are terrible, the food doesn’t even look good. The props and set ups are boring at best, and sometimes they make the food look even grosser.
This month’s article highlights: Milk Chocolate (snooze), Meat and Potatoes (???), Vegetable Soups for the Soul, and Super Snacks (The pictures for this look like they went to the frozen food aisle and bought a bunch of frozen fried snacks…)
I can’t look at it any more to give more examples. It’s too depressing. God. What is a food snob to do?